How to Store and Transport Your Miniatures Safely

Quick answer

Store painted miniatures in a case or tray system that keeps models from touching each other, and transport them upright with the case secured so nothing shifts. Foam trays work for most infantry, while magnetic bases on a metal-lined case are safer for spindly or heavy models. Always let paint and varnish cure fully before packing.

A chipped sword tip or a snapped banner usually happens in the bag, not on the table. Most miniature damage comes from models rubbing against each other, pressing into hard surfaces, or sliding inside a case during a car ride. The fix is a storage setup that holds each model in place and a transport routine you repeat every time.

This guide walks through choosing miniature storage solutions, loading a miniature carry case, and moving an army without wrecking it. The steps apply whether you play Warhammer 40,000, Age of Sigmar, or any skirmish game with fragile plastic and resin.

Match the storage method to the model

Foam trays are the default for rank-and-file infantry because slots cradle arms, backpacks, and weapons without pressure points. Magnetic storage, where a steel base or magnetized model sticks to a metal-lined tray, is better for tall models, vehicles, and anything with thin protruding parts that foam would bend. Measure your tallest model before buying a case, since a tray that fits a standard trooper may crush a banner or a raised weapon.

For a small collection, a compartment box with soft dividers can work, but loose compartments let models rattle. Whichever route you pick, the goal is the same: no model should be able to move more than a few millimeters inside its slot.

• Foam: best for infantry and models with flat or tucked-in profiles.
• Magnets: best for vehicles, monsters, and spindly characters.
• Compartment boxes: fine for bits and unpainted models, risky for finished paint jobs.

Prep models before they go in the case

Paint needs to be fully cured, not just dry to the touch. A varnish coat adds a sacrificial layer that takes the scuff instead of your highlights, and it also reduces the chance that foam friction dulls the finish over time. If you just finished a model, give it at least a day before packing it, and longer in humid conditions.

Check that bases are secure and that any sub-assemblies are glued or pinned. A loose arm that falls off inside a case becomes a scratch hazard for every model around it. For heavy metal or resin pieces, consider pinning the connection rather than relying on glue alone.

• Varnish before first transport, not after the first chip.
• Re-glue or pin any joint that flexes when you handle the model.
• Label trays by unit so you repack the same way every time.

Load the case so nothing touches

Place models base-down and upright, with the most fragile parts facing the open space of the slot rather than the wall. If two models share a tray, leave a gap between them; foam compresses when the case is closed, so a snug-looking fit can still press swords into faces. For magnetized trays, set models down gently and give each one a light tug to confirm the magnet has grabbed.

Fill empty slots with a piece of foam or bubble wrap so the tray does not collapse inward. A half-empty tray is one of the most common causes of damage because the remaining models slide into the gap.

• Never stack a second layer directly on top of upright models.
• Keep the heaviest models on the bottom tray.
• Do a gentle shake test with the lid open before you close it.

Transport the case like it holds glass

When transporting miniatures, keep the case flat and upright rather than on its side, and secure it so it cannot slide in the trunk or back seat. A case that shifts during braking transfers that force to the models inside. If you carry multiple cases, strap them together or wedge them against something solid.

Temperature matters too. Leaving a case in a hot car can soften plastic and warp thin parts, while extreme cold makes plastic more brittle. Bring the case inside when you arrive rather than leaving it in the vehicle between games.

• Seatbelt or wedge the case; do not let it roll around.
• Avoid the trunk in summer heat.
• Carry the case by the handle, not by a strap that swings it into your leg.

Unpack, inspect, and reset after every game

Unpack on a clean, soft surface rather than a hard table edge. Check bases, weapons, and any magnetized parts for looseness, and set aside anything that needs repair before it goes back in the case. This five-minute habit catches small problems before they become broken models.

Repack in the same layout you used before. If a model no longer fits the way it did, something has shifted or bent, and it is worth adjusting the tray rather than forcing the lid closed.

• Keep a small repair kit with glue and a hobby knife in the case.
• Photograph your tray layout so you can rebuild it after a tournament.
• Replace foam that has compressed or torn; worn foam stops holding models.

Storage and transport steps

1. 1. Cure and varnish: Let paint dry fully and apply a varnish coat before the model ever enters a case. Checkpoint: if the paint still smells or feels tacky, wait another day.
2. 2. Choose the right tray: Use foam slots for infantry and magnetic trays for tall, heavy, or spindly models. Checkpoint: the tallest model must clear the lid with room to spare.
3. 3. Load with gaps: Place models upright, fragile parts facing open space, and fill empty slots so nothing slides. Checkpoint: shake the open tray gently; if a model moves, repack it.
4. 4. Secure the case in transit: Keep the case flat and wedge or strap it so it cannot shift while you drive. Checkpoint: avoid hot trunks and cold overnight storage.
5. 5. Inspect and reset after play: Unpack on a soft surface, check joints and magnets, and repack in the same layout. Checkpoint: repair loose parts before they go back in the case.

Secondhand models and storage planning

• Age of Sigmar Auric Runemaster GIE-18: Secondhand Shop product, sold as-is, with sales final and described as what you see is what you get. Because the condition is fixed at purchase, inspect the model as soon as it arrives and decide whether it needs pinning or a base repair before it goes into storage.
• Chaos Space Marines Legionaries HLY-23: Secondhand Shop product, sold as-is, with sales final and described as what you see is what you get. A unit like this is a good candidate for a foam tray with individual slots, since several similarly sized models in one tray can rub together if they are packed loose.
• Emperor's Children Fulgrim HFX-04: Secondhand Shop product, sold as-is, with sales final and described as what you see is what you get. A large centerpiece model needs a dedicated slot or a magnetic base rather than sharing a tray, because its size and protruding parts are the first things to bend in transit.

Good miniature storage is less about buying the most expensive case and more about consistency. Pick a tray system that fits your tallest model, load it the same way every time, and treat transport as the risky part of the hobby. Do that, and your painted miniatures will look the same after a hundred games as they did the day you finished them.